Nothing you have ever worn before will give you the pleasure, or quiet confidence, of a bespoke suit from Charlie Allen. Cut to your exact measurements, from the finest cloth with details chosen by you, this bespoke suit will put you immediately at ease. It will feel like an old friend from the moment you put it on and improve with age.
We can cut the sleeve slightly wider to accommodate your watch, or perhaps you’d like a pocket for your phone, or if you’re left handed, a pen pocket on the right hand side?
You might like the jacket in a sober colour, and the lining or melton on the back of the collar in something more vibrant. Maybe you’d like a shirt-grip on the inside band of the trouser or canvas bands at the bottom of the legs to prevent friction on the back of the shoes?
Or hidden pockets, different colour stitching around the working buttonholes, a flower loop on the inside of your lapel or a half-lining?
Anything is possible.
Whatever details you choose, we’ll integrate them into your suit in an elegant and discrete way, to create a garment that is uniquely, and wonderfully yours!
THE CUT BY CHARLIE
The Charlie Allen cut is relaxed.
Deeply inspired by masters of Italian tailoring such as Giorgio Armani and Cerruti. Charlie Allen suits have a soft comfortable construction. 'I want my suits to feel comfortable, it should be enjoyable. A lot of my work as a designer has been centered around the idea of juxtaposition. There is a playfulness to my work, I like my suits to highlight the natural charm of a customer. The suit shouldn't wear you!'
Book an appointment with us in our Islington studio or perhaps you would like a home or office visit? We are happy to oblige of course! We take sometime out to get to know you, discover your style, tastes and idiosyncrasies. We then design your garment together selecting cloth, lining and trimmings from a selection of over twenty thousand cloths. Up to thirty of your measurements are then taken in order to create your bespoke pattern.
The cutter and tailor then take charge. Mr Moto will create your bespoke pattern which will be kept on file and adapted in accordance with your changing shape. After being cut in cloth your parcel is then trimmed with all the accoutrements such as canvas, dommette, haircloth, lining etc. before being passed to the tailor. The tailor then creates a ‘rough baste’ and you are ready for your first fitting! Every time you come your jacket will be given to the same tailor ensuring continuity in style and quality.
Come in for your first fitting, this is sometimes also referred to as a skeleton baste as only the shell of the jacket has been created. This gives us the freedom to adapt yoursuit; perhaps lower a pocket a little or drop the hem?
Your suit is back to the tailor where they will create the bulk of the garment.You will then be required for another fitting. This is called the forward fitting; you have a much clearer understanding of how your suit will look once completed!
We like to have another fitting when your suit is almost finished. This stage is called ‘finishing the bar holes'. It is the final consideration where we examine your new suit and ensure it is a perfect fit!
After your final fitting, your garments will then be passed back to the tailors to be meticulously hand finished. Over 20 hours of work go into hand finishing a two-piece suit.