The Evolution of the Gemmell Jacket: A Modern Take on Traditional Workwear

 The fashion world has always found inspiration in the past, but few garments embody this connection more profoundly than The Gemmell Chore Jacket. This distinctive piece, rooted in the rich history of workwear, is a testament to how functional design can evolve into something both stylish and versatile.

The Roots: Traditional Chore Jackets

To understand the Gemmell Jacket, it’s essential first to appreciate its predecessor and inspiration —the Chore jacket. Emerging in the late 19th century, the chore jacket was a staple for workers across Europe and America. Originally designed for labourer’s, this utilitarian garment was crafted for durability and practicality. With a boxy silhouette, large pockets, made up in sturdy fabrics like denim, canvas, or moleskin, the chore jacket was built to withstand the rigors of manual work, making it a trusted companion for farmers, mechanics, and factory workers.

source. Vintage Menswear, A Collection from the Showroom

The chore jacket’s design was simple but effective. Its loose fit allowed for easy movement, while the large pockets provided ample space for tools and other necessities. Over time, the jacket’s practicality led to its adoption by other groups, from artists to intellectuals, who appreciated its blend of function and understated style.

The 1980s: Charlie Allen’s Exploration

Fast forward to the 1980s, a period when fashion was as much about breaking norms as it was about creating new ones. Charlie Allen arrived at The Royal College of Art needing to shed the bespoke suits made in his parents shop that had always been go to, so he began experimenting with a different type of suit jacket – the chore jacket.  Unlike its original function as workwear, Charlie saw the potential for this humble garment to be reimagined as a casual yet refined jacket with a tailor’s touch. It was a garment he became comfortable with-a kind of new uniform, he began wearing.  

Sketch of the Gemmell Jacket by Charlie Allen 

During this time, Charlie wore various iterations of the chore jacket, exploring different fabrics, fits, and finishes. He recognized that the jacket’s simple, unstructured design could be elevated through the use of finer materials and tailoring techniques. The result was a jacket that retained the chore jacket’s practicality but introduced a new level of sophistication—ideal for a more casual, yet still polished, look. Remember this was during the period of Charlies first collections combining traditional tailoring with inspiration from Japanese masters.

Charlie in a early Gemmell style, still worn and loved to this day!

Rediscovery in 2019: The Birth of the Gemmell Jacket

Over the years Charlie would come back to this staple making one- off pieces for clients that saw him wearing one after the shop had shut and he was sketching or in the pub and liked the way it looked. The turning point in the Gemmell Jacket’s story came in 2018/19 whilst clearing an old workshop of Charlies I stumbled upon one of these early jackets. This was a tweed herringbone made sometime in the very early 90’s. It had held up remarkably well and was so elegant and chic. I saw it as the very jacket I had been searching in vintage stores in London, Paris and Brussels for. This rediscovery sparked a desire to revisit and refine the design. Our team recognized that the jacket’s blend of casual ease and subtle tailoring was precisely what our clients were looking for—something versatile enough to wear everywhere and anywhere.

The Inside of a Gemmell, as gorgeous as the outside 

A Client wearing a custom Linen Gemmell suit for his wedding 

Thus, the Gemmell Jacket was born. It’s a jacket that nods to its chore jacket origins but has been thoughtfully updated for today’s wearer. The jacket is soft and half-lined, providing comfort and ease of movement. Yet, it also incorporates tailoring techniques that give it a structured, polished appearance.

Gemmell Jacket made from Tweed 

Evolution: The Gemmell Suit

The Gemmell Suit was introduced as a three-piece ensemble that maintained the casual, comfortable ethos of the original jacket. Designed as an alternative to the traditional suit, it offers a relaxed fit and is made from the same luxurious yet easy-to-wear fabrics as the jacket. This evolution reflects a broader trend in menswear and feedback from our clients —where the boundaries between formal and casual are increasingly blurred, and comfort is no longer sacrificed for style. The complete three piece comprises of our Gemmell jacket, a straight fit utility waistcoat and an elevated ‘Track Pant’.

The Gemmell Suit as a Two Piece available now!  

A Suit for the Modern World

By drawing on the history of the chore jacket, Charlie Allen has created a suit that resonates with the modern wearer—someone who values both comfort and craftsmanship. Whether worn as part of a suit or on its own, the Gemmell suit is a versatile addition to any wardrobe, a perfect blend of tradition and innovation.

As to why we called it the Gemmell? That’s easy we named it after one of our favourite clients and friend Horse Owner Andy Gemmell – one of the first in 2019 to adopt our new style of suit. To date he owns 7 of the jackets which he wears to various tracks around the world.

The Gemmell Jacket is offered in a variety of fabrics, including linen, corduroy, velvet, tweed, and wool flannel, allowing wearers to choose the texture and weight that best suits their needs.

Charlie Enjoying his morning Coffee in a Brushed Cotton Gemmell.